Dining Out: Gebhart’s of Floral Park offers Austrian-German, as well as American fare

By Carol Brock

GEBHARDT'S

230 Jericho Turnpike, Floral Park
516 354-8185

Think American-Continental. Think German-Austrian. The new Gebhardt's in Floral Park does both and does both very well.

The setting, based on great space with a light and airy, garden room effect, is outstanding. (Remember it from the days of the Old Glory, its predecessor?) A balcony that runs around a good part of the room adds drama. From there, piano selections from the '50s emanate during the dinner hour. It's a delightful spot, and management suggests that you have a glass of champagne beside the baby grand. So do I – it's a charming conclusion to a wonderful evening.

We three were seated in the front room separated from an attractive bar by pillars and flowers. The menu handed to us was all American, with Gebhardt's traditional menu of German specialties printed on a separate sheet tucked in the center fold. Gebhardt's sibling, the first born, has been in Glendale since 1933. It's famed for all things German from herring salat to marinated herring filet and chopped chicken livers to sauerbraten, old-fashioned pot roast and schnitzel to homemade apple strudel and Black Forest ice cream sundae. They're all in Floral Park.

The new Gebhardt's has in addition a very cutting-edge menu from crab cake Napoleon and Asian BBQ ribs, to spiced Asian duck breast, roasted Chilean sea bass and grilled veal chop with herb spinach risotto with truffle oil and port wine syrup. After due deliberation this was it:

Our traditionalist chose the carrot and fennel soup for a starter and it was stunning – a thick carrot-colored puree, presented with a fennel puree spiral going in one direction and a pesto-like spiral bisecting it in another. (This item is and deserves to be on the avant garde menu.)

I was lucky enough to order the autumn salad. It is a masterpiece of flavors and textures with baby greens, candied walnuts, sliced pears – diced, finely crumbled Gorgonzola with an herb lemon vinaigrette and a garnish of four Belgium endive leaves filled with minced beets. Go, dine tonight before it's removed from the menu for things spring and summer. It's that good! The wild mushroom strudel on a bed of sauteed Swiss chard rated raves as well. And so did the ravioli with smoked mozzarella (super) and asparagus in a puree-like roasted tomato sauce.

The traditionalist, a veal fancier, debated the three pork schnitzels: Which way to enjoy the breaded cutlets? – Jaeger with mushrooms and green peppers, bacon and onion or Tiroler with white wine and mushrooms and Jahlsberg or North Country with Canadian bacon, heese and mustard sauce. With the Tiroler version he had the dumplings and a serving of red cabbage.

The American contingent of two who came for food German were enticed by the sliced duck (breast) confit on sweet and sour oriental noodles, sesame cabbage and port wine sauce. A split, grilled Cornish game hen arranged on a creamy rosemary polenta with roasted shallots and pancetta sauce out-tasted the German. Too few chefs are serving creamy polenta. A shame. This was incredibly delicious.

The star of our dessert array was rhubarb creme brulee. The tartness of the rhubarb bottom layer was a perfect foil for the richness of the creme. Another delicious touch was the sesame wafer standing up right, dead center. Apple strudel, sorry, was not distinguished and Banana Foster tried but missed. The batter-dipped banana, looked interesting, served split open on the plate.

Next time, for there will be a next time, will it be German-Austrian or American-Continental for me?

THE BOTTOM LINE

Very fine American-Continental served, as well as the traditional German-Austrian. Pleasant garden room-like setting with balcony, baby grand, and cocktail tables for after-dinner drinks and listening.

CHEF'S CHOICE

Puree of Fennel Soup…$3.95

Wild Mushroom Strudel…$7.95

Chopped Chicken Livers…$3.00

Roasted Chilean Sea Bass…$18.00

Sauerbraten (marinated in family

recipe…$15.95

Grilled Veal Chop…$21.00

Rhubarb creme Brulee…$5.95

Hot Chocolate Souffle…$5.95

Homemade Apple Strudel…$4.00

Cuisine: American-Continental,