Dining Out: Westbury’s Stockyard upholds steakhouse charm

By Carol Brock

Once it was an old boarding house dating back to the Civil War days. Now its The Stockyard Ltd., a fine dining steak house in Westbury.

The boarding house on Post Avenue with a pathetic bar was bought in 1991 by contractor Joseph Masielo who spent five years on the transformation including designing the kitchen. For the last six and a half it has been a steakhouse. The final flourish came last week when the menu with a brass cover was introduced.

We were seated downstairs in the Victorian Room with floor-to-ceiling drapes of lavender, Victorian wall sconces and a curtained niche where wine is stashed. We were intrigued by the service of martinis. The glass is a hefty 10 ounce, but it’s the individual chromium shaker that each receives that makes it so retro.

If you prefer bottled water, you’ll find it cooling at your side in ice in a champagne bucket, the theory being that many people add ice cubes to their bottled water which may make it less than pure.

Appetizer deciding time. Oysters Rockefeller are a steakhouse classic. The Stockyard version is luscious! Hollandaise tops each one. Three large ones arranged on a plate looked as beguiling as six on the traditional rock salt.

My dining companion chose today’s steakhouse classic, an individual crab cake. It was packed (he was impressed) with Worcestershire- and Tabasco-seasoned darker, sweeter claw meat. But he did not fancy the crusty bread crumb crust.

And, yes, we had the house salad, (very good, thank you) as we studied the “How do you like your steak?” guide. Black and blue—charred outside with a red, cold, center; rare—red, cool center; medium rare—red, warm center; medium—red, pink center; medium well—broiled throughout; or well done—charred outside, broiled throughout inside.

Since the two chefs (William from Maryland and Ishamel from Puerto Rico) are from the late Island Inn’s John Peel Room, they know their reds, blues and centers.

Believing that a steakhouse must have fine steak to survive (and at The Stockyard it’s USDA-certified Angus beef), we usually order another entree item. His special of the day was a masterpiece, a grilled T-bone veal steak, a filet of veal better than a pound—thick, juicy and flavorful (the meat next to the bone is always more so.) It’s served topped with crimni mushrooms, i.e. baby portobello.

I debated the chopped sirloin (one pound) with sautéed onions or mushrooms. For those who like a bit of savoir-faire, there’s Frenched pork chops served with applesauce and Frenched veal chops served with creamed mushrooms. But I decided on another special, stuffed shrimp which could be a entree on their own or ordered as a combination with steak. Somehow these stuffed shrimp did not conjure up steakhouse fare. As a surf and turf companion I would have loved them. If I were a “delicate eater,” I would have been happier.

Desserts are standard steakhouse fare–the Key lime tart, cheesecake, chocolate chocolate cake and fresh strawberries with really real whipped cream. I’m told the owner himself makes the apple pie. The wait staff is headed by 20-year veteran (also a former John Peel Room man) Louis.

On the way out, I picked up a brochure that told about private rooms for little parties. The Victorian has a glamorous chandelier. It seats 14 or 15.

When you're heading out to the Island, keep The Stockyard in Westbury, a fine dining steakhouse, in mind

The Bottom Line

A boarding house in Civil War days. Now a fine dining steakhouse. Ten-ounce martinis served in individual chrome shaker. USDA-certified Angus beef. Private rooms for small parties.

Chef’s Choice

Homemade Crab Cake…S

Escargot…$11.95

Boneless Shell…$29.95

Porterhouse (for one/for two)…$32.95/$52.95

Prime Rib (Fri & Sat Stockyard cut classic)…$26.95

Stockyard's BBQ Baby Back Ribs…$21.95

Creamed Spinach…$4.95

Onion Rings (homemade, beer battered)…$4.95

NY Creamy Cheese Cake…$4.75

Chocolate Chocolate Cake…$4.75

Cuisine: Fine dining steakhouse

Setting: Victorian

Service: Professional

Hours: D (4pm) 7 days

Reservations: Yes

Parking: Lot

Location: S of LIRR Westbury station

Dress: Neat casual. Proper attire

Credit cards: All major, no Discover

Private parties: 16 to 35

Takeout: Yes

Off-premise catering: Yes

Noise level: Fri & Sat low to medium

Smoking: Pub area

Handicap access: Yes