By Carol Brock
Brunello Restaurant
420 Northern Blvd.
Great Neck
516-829-3458
Brunello is an Italian red wine from Northern Italy. And Brunello is the name of the newest (and the most Manhattan-like) Italian restaurant on Northern. That’s where Bardi used to be. There are Bardi connections: Michelangelo Corrado, Brunello’s major domo, was with Bardi’s. Bardi’s sous chef Joseph Cabrera, a veteran of 26 years, is now Brunello’s executive chef.
There have been renovations with a very sophisticated Manhattan-on-Long Island type of place evolving. The entry remains the huge, well-polished wooden bar room — completely separate from the dining room with its spaced tables, two full-blown, large, pink roses on each. The bar is ringed with paintings that offer something for everyone — Venice, street scenes, seaside dining, ballroom dancing and more. New cherry oak-upholstered chairs are comfortable.
Normally, I like low lighting (provided you can read the menu) but this room was at its best the day I arrived at noon for lunch before the lights were dimmed a notch. And that was when the maitre d’ said, “Give madam table No. 1.” Now when did you hear that East of the East River? Another metropolitan indication: Four businessmen arrived for lunch with white shirts and ties, two with jackets and two without. Two had bottled water (probably lawyers or stock brokers.)
My luncheon was a pasta fagioli starter just because it said Brunello’s. The beans were extra large and the balance of beans to pasta perfect. My grilled calamari on mescaline greens was an array of mature, tooth tender, calamari rings. The waiter recited the desserts and my choice, white chocolate mousse, was more exciting than its name. It was in a delightful almond shell set in a bit of crème anglaise with a ruffle of strawberry coulis. And then espresso.
A dinner for two began with a shrimp bisque for my dining companion who enthused over the lightness, the depth of flavor and the tiny shrimp on the bottom. Again, I was intrigued to try Brunello’s version of ceviche. There’s been a burst of dining creativity — in fact the food is Italian/Continental. Here were scallops and shrimp marinated in fresh lime juice, olive oil, coriander, Bermuda onions and tomato. The scallops were ultra small — sea scallops cut into medallions.
Risotto alla frutti di mare comes as an appetizer or main course of arborio rice with lobster, scallops, shrimp, clams and a touch of tomato sauce. My companion was thrilled by the generous pieces of lobster.
The continental side of Brunello comes across loud and clear with my entree of crispy Long Island duck with braised cabbage and pear in natural sauce. Ducks aren’t the scrawny birds they used to be. This was plump and moist with great flavor and the cabbage and fresh pear were a perfect foil.
And now, the dramatic finale. My companion longed for the hot chocolate soufflé and we went all out, ordering it as you must, at the meal’s beginning. On the premise that you can’t have too much of a good thing, it’s served with Grand Marnier sauce and a fluff of whipped cream. Now that’s continental!
Here’s dining à la Manhattan without crossing the East River with knife and fork to do it.
The Bottom Line
A new Italian/Continental restaurant. Cuisine with creative touches. A Manhattan-on-Long Island type of place. Excellent service. Up scale ambiance.
Chef’s Choice
Lumache – traditional (snails with butter, garlic and parsley)…$11.95
Aragasta e Gomberoni (lobster and shrimp with frisee, cannelloni, onion and tomato)…$12 .95
Insalata di Brunello (chopped tri-color salad with asparagus, Portobello mushrooms, roasted peppers and Parmigiana cheese in a light mustard vinaigrette)…$8.95
Rigatoni al Brunello (short rigatoni pasta with chicken, oven-roasted tomatoes, mushrooms and asparagus finished in a roasted veal sauce with garlic)…$17.95
Spezzato di Pollo e Forestole (chicken breast pieces, artichokes, mushrooms, potato and fava beans sautéed with fresh herbs and white wine)…$18.95
Scallopine di Vitello al Brunello (slices of veal with prosciutto, wild mushroom mousse, melted mozzarella and a touch of Brunello wine sauce)…$21.95
Spigola de Chile al Sugo di Aragosta (Chilean sea bass with scallions and fresh tomatoes in a lobster broth)…$23.95
Homemade Ricotta Cheesecake…$7
Homemade Peach & Raspberry Tart…$7
Cuisine: Italian/Continental
Setting: Manhattan-like
Service: Very professional
Hours: L&D 7 days
Parking: Valet & rear lot
Dress: Neat casual. Some jackets
Location: W of Lakeville Rd.
Private Parties: To 150
Off-Premise Catering: Yes
Music: Soft Italian & American
Noise Level: Fri. & Sat. moderate
Handicap Access: Yes
