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Dining Out: Two sites to peruse sweets for your Valentine

By Carol Brock

Mondrian

46 Great Neck Rd.,

Great Neck

516-829-1196

fax 516-829-1196

If you’re looking for a patisserie fix from 7:30 a.m. seven days a week and to midnight on Friday and Saturday, dash over to Mondrian. It’s the real thing. Chef Michel Willaume, was on the American team that won the Pastry World Competition in Lyon France in 2001, the year he opened in Great Neck. (And there’s just been a Manhattan opening.)

Inspired by classic art, Michel named it Mondrian. His pastry creations are dubbed Dali, Picasso, Renoir, Rodin, MIro, Monet, Michelangelo, Gauguin. The bakery/cafe look is an arty black and white with black leather booths and huge, black, sink-in club chairs and sofas up front. Pastry art photos hang along one the wall, a lighted, mirrored, pastry case exhibits the real thing on the other. Square white, very Mondrian china is used for serving.

The bakery items run the gamut from patisserie creations with chocolate sponge and hazelnut daquoise, to tarts of almond dough, and red fruit jam and seasonal fruits, to traditional eclairs and mille feuille.

For LIRR commuters, there’s coffee to go from 7:30 a.m. as well as over-endowed croissants, brioche and Danish. The Danish is done in a French style with a custard heart, polished glaze and precisely set almonds. The brioche — I am sad, very sad, to say — does not have the dough topknot and while the bite is buttery, the texture is finely knit, the crust pale. (The cheese crumble-topped version is inspired.)

To my delight, there was a French beignet — a feather-light, tennis ball-like doughnut, centered with raspberry jam. Sip with it, Mondrian’s fab oversized cup of American coffee. (Forget the cappuccino.)

Sandwiches (terrific, ultra-fresh bread) and a chef’ salad-of-the-day are served. There’s ice cream, sorbets and gelato. And do consider taking home the slim, square black box of six exquisite, petite chocolates ($10). Michel has been pro chocolate from age 1.

Chef’s Choice

Mondrian (competition winner: hazelnut streusel, caramel cream, chocolate sponge)…$6

Dali (almond sponge, yogurt mousse, fresh strawberries)…$6

Rodin (almond dough, hazelnut praline, almond sponge, caramelized apples)…$5.75

Mondarin Mille Feuille (chocolate puff pastry, vanilla cream, Caraibe chocolate cream)…$4

Mignardises (French macaroons)…$1.25

Smoked Turkey Sandwich (10-grain roll, lettuce, smoked turkey, served with mesclun & cornichons)…$7

Chef Salad-of-the Day…$7 to $10

French Onion Soup…$5

Cuisine:

French pastry shop & cafe

Hours: From 7:30 am 7 days. Closes Sat & Sun Noon

Parking: Garden mall

Music: French CD’s

The Attic

34-25 Douglaston Pkwy.

Douglaston

718-225-3448

It’s been said, “New York is becoming one big lounge.” New Yorkers have taken to the European way of unwinding in armchairs beside coffee tables while sipping coffee or a drink. And now it’s come to Douglaston via The Attic.

Cal had a hardware store there forever, overstuffed with every hard-to-find item that had ever been and, with a little time, could miraculously locate every one. The new owner, John Koijenovic, and his brother, a contractor, stripped it bare. Now it’s a stunning brick and timber setting with handsome appointments and rattan chairs and coffee tables beside the large-paned window up front. The Faema coffee bar, centered with a glass show case full of Bindi pastries is opposite.

The polished, dark wood bar and a grouping of elbow-high tables and chairs are in the rear by another window. Here, a well-liked Great Neck combo plays on Thursdays and Sundays at 8 p.m. Their special niche has a large wine rack on one wall and brick on the other. (On combo nights, Thursdays and Sundays, there’s valet parking.)

At the moment, The Attic is one of those hidden treasures. Word hasn’t gotten out, and Attic looks dark to passersby. Signs of life are coming. And in spring, a kitchen will be added for serving the Montenegro. Think Greek spinach pie, but Montenegros have three fillings — spinach, cheese and meat. For now, they’re only passed at private parties. It’s nuts and pretzels at the bar. Panini, the chic Italian sandwich, and salads will be served, too.

So, remove your stress with a great coffee. I had a cafe latte. It also comes flavored — raspberry (rather sweet, if you drink coffee sans sugar) or chocolate. From the array of imported Italian pastries (all from the famed Bindi), I chose chocolate fondant. One intensely chocolate bite and I knew it would be blissfully death by chocolate.

Tiramisu awaits in a rectangular pan along with Bindi’s very berry fruit tart and good ole carrot cake. Prim, round, individual pastries filled with hazelnut mousse or chocolate mousse beckon. Come summer, will there be Bindi’s elegant gelato filled orange and lemon shells, and melon halves?

Locals said, “They should have called it Cal’s Place — everyone will!” But, no one has called that yet. This cafe lounge has come of age.

Chef’s Choice

Bindi’s Imported Italian Pastries…$5

(Chocolate Fondant, Fruit Berry Tart, Hazelnut Mousse Pastry, Chocolate Mousse Pastry, Tiramisu, Carrot Cake, Faema Coffees…$3.75

Caffe Latte (also flavored), Cappuccino, (plain or flavored), Mocha…$4

Cuisine: Cafe lounge (coffee & pastries at present)

Hours: Open 7 days. M to Fri 5 pm, Sat & Sun 4 pm.

Close: M to Fri & Sun 2 am, Sat 3 am

Music: Combo Thurs & Sun

Parking: Valet: Thurs & Sun