La Tavernetta: La Tavernetta, where everyone is treated like family

By Suzanne Parker

La Tavernetta is the closest thing I know to that mythical Italian restaurant you used to see in movies or on TV, where the owner comes out of the kitchen to shmooze with the diners and listens to their triumphs and troubles. I used to think that I was special by the way I was received at La Tavernetta, but little by little I came to realize that everyone is treated as if they are special there. That is, unless unbeknownst to me, every other diner, on every one of my visits was directly related to the Zampitelli family. At least that's how it seems.

La Tavernetta is a tiny, unprepossessing Italian eatery tucked away in a restaurant Siberia in Glendale. It boasts a breathtaking view of the unoccupied, gradually deteriorating, former Glendale Tile showroom and, if you're angled properly, the railroad tracks. The ambiance here is created by the warmth of chef/owner Michael Zampitelli's hospitality and fabulous food. Nothing else matters.

Diners are welcomed with bread and caponata, and a glass of house red or white, on the house. We began a recent visit with a special, crab cake with pink caper sauce. The crab cake was large in circumference, but not in height, retaining the perfect balance between the crisp exterior and the fluffy interior. The capers added an extra dimension to the sauce and to the crab cakes.

Caesar salad has become such a culinary football that it's a surprise when you find a good one. La Tavernetta's outstanding version comes freshly made and heaped with broad shavings of parmesan, and a hint of anchovies concealed in the dressing.

“Pasta fresca fatta en casa,” or handmade pasta made fresh daily, is where La Tavernetta really shows its mettle. The pasta is exquisite. It is featherweight, but manages to retain a slightly al dente chewiness. The sauces are simultaneously light and rich. Our menu favorite is Cappellacci di Vitello al Burro, Salvia e Funghi–Veal Ravioli with butter sage and mushroom sauce. On a recent visit one of the specials was a variation on that theme-mushroom ravioli with smoked proscuitto in sage butter sauce-sort of the veal ravioli turned inside out, but equally delectable. The Lasagne Emiliana is a classic made with meat sauce, béchamel, and parmesan cheese-much lighter than the more familiar Southern Italian/American style made with ricotta, mozzarella, and the kitchen sink. Lasagna Verdi con Ortaggi-spinach lasagna with fresh vegetables, tomato sauce and parmesan is a vegetarian dream. You could really throw a dart at the pasta menu here, and never be disappointed.

For Secondi di Carne e Pesce-loosely translated as the main course, we chose two specials, chicken cordon bleu and and proscuitto wrapped tilapia with spinach. After gorging on the wonderful pasta, the entrée is always a challenge for us, but one that we met. The chicken was an Italianized take on this French classic, incorporating prosciutto and oozing with melted fontina cheese. The proscuitto imparted lively flavor to the bland tilapia, heaped with spinach and sauced with a sage wine sauce. Another winner.

The desserts listed on the menu are limited to Italian cheesecake and tiramisu, but ask and you shall receive. There appear to be daily special desserts as well. On a recent visit, portions of torta d'elezicia were produced. Imagine a slice of a lush, elastic pastry filled with a touch of marzipan, and you've got it. Bliss.

The Bottom Line

If you love fine Italian food, and appreciate warm hospitality, what are you waiting for? With prices as modest as the interior decoration, La Tavernetta is one of Queens' hidden gems.

La Tavernetta

75-01 88th St.

(Between Cooper Avenue & Union Turnpike)

Glendale, NY 11385

(718)896-3538

Cuisine: Northern Italian

Setting: Tiny, unpretentious

Service: Friendly and accommodating

Hours: Lunch and Dinner daily

Reservations: No

Alcohol: Complimentary house wine or

BYOB