By Suzanne Parker
Unless you know your way around Port Washington, expect to gain a sense of accomplishment just from finding La Motta's Waterside Restaurant. It is tucked away on Manhasset Bay in the marina. It can be accessed as easily by boat as by car.
The La Motta's experience is inextricably linked to its ambiance. Of course, it has a sweeping view of the bay and the marina, and indoor and outdoor dining, but that's not all that makes its location unique. The unusual red and white domed structure was once part of the 1964-65 New York World's Fair. Built by Owens-Corning Fiberglass Corporation, it was originally part of the Sinclair Oil Company's exhibition. Sinclair was awarded the contract to supply fuel to the fair's marina in Flushing Bay, and they placed the “umbrella” over the floating fuel dock at the front of the marina.
After the fair closed, Mario S. LaMotta, grandfather of the restaurant's present owners, in a joint venture with the Sinclair Oil Company, had the fuel dock completely renovated and towed to Manhasset Bay and placed at the head of Manhasset Bay Marina, where it once again served as a fuel dock.
In 1972, the fuel dock was replaced and the umbrella moved to land where it was used to shade the Manhasset Bay Marina's snack bar and patio area.Then in 1993, the snack bar was transformed into La Motta's Waterside Restaurant, making use of this unusual and historic structure.
Predictably, the menu at La Motta's is mostly about seafood. The preparations are eclectic American with an Italian accent. The flavors coddle rather than challenge your palate.
Good bread, which consisted of nice warm crusty rolls, is always an auspicious sign. We began our meal with clam chowder and coconut macadamia-crusted shrimp with pineapple and mango salsa. The New England-style clam chowder was served in a “boule,” a hollowed out round loaf of the same excellent bread as our rolls. The chowder was rich and abundant with clams. My dining companion couldn't resist tearing apart and devouring the chowder soaked bread after polishing off the chowder. Declassé behavior I'm sure, but who could blame her?
We enjoyed the coconut macadamia crusted shrimp in the way you would enjoy a hostess's most treasured recipe clipped from “Family Circle.” A crunchy exterior surrounded sweet jumbo shrimp, paired with an overly sweet pineapple mango “salsa” that tasted like thickened canned pineapple. Retro Hawaiian. A few chopped fresh chilies and maybe a little garlic would have gone a long way to earning it its “salsa” moniker.
The Montrachet goat cheese salad with organic greens and raspberry vinaigrette was nicely done and ample enough to be shared, and also an excuse for another one of those great rolls.
Lobster fra diavolo was being offered as a special on the evening of our visit. Not only did it arrive with a nice sized lobster, but with jumbo shrimp and scallops scattered around, a challenge to all but the heartiest appetites. The fra diavolo sauce was more angelic than devilish. If you prefer it spicy, make that known to your server.
Our other entrée was “St. Louis style ribs– smokey Memphis-style BBQ ribs.” I had misgivings about ordering ribs at a seafood restaurant, and wondered how they could be both St. Louis and Memphis style simultaneously, but my dining companion insisted they were listed as one of La Motta's specialties. I should have trusted my instincts. The sauce, more closely approximating a dry rub, might have spoken with a Memphis accent, but the ribs were dry. Besides, I don't see how any diner gazing upon the bay and the boats could be hankering for anything that doesn't swim.
La Motta's has a full complement of luscious desserts. We filled our sweet tooth with a blondie/brownie sundae. What possibly could be not to like?
The Bottom Line
La Motta's is an idyllic setting for chowing down on marine life. Modern global influences have been incorporated into their menu with a light hand and gentle touch. Call it comfort seafood.
LaMotta's Waterside
Restaurant
10 Matinecock Avenue
Port Washington, L.I.
516-944-7900
www.lamottasrestaurant.com
Cuisine: Eclectic American and Italian with emphasis on fish and seafood
Setting: Ethnic eatery
Service: Attentive and efficient
Hours: Lunch, Dinner. Seven days, Sunday brunch
Reservations: Recommended
Alcohol: Full bar
Parking: Private lot
Dress: Casual
Children: Welcome
Music: No
Takeout: Yes
Credit cards: Yes
Noise level: Acceptable
Handicap accessible: Yes
Recommended Dishes
Coconut macadamia shrimp… $9.25
Clam Chowder… $6.50
Goat cheese salad… $7
Lobster Fra Diavolo… $24
Blondie a la mode… $6.75
