By Suzanne Parker
Chinese began immigrating to Calcutta to work at the port in the late 18th century. They found a niche in the leather tanning industry, an occupation shunned by Hindus because of the contact with cowhide, and earned a reputation for fine leather goods. The majority of these Chinese immigrants were of the Hakka minority, originally a central Chinese people who were dispersed throughout southeastern China and Taiwan 900 years ago and who still retain their own distinct language and culture. Tangra became as well known for its delicious Hakka style Chinese food as its leather goods.Tangra Wok, an Indo-Chinese restaurant featuring the flavors of Tangra, recently debuted in Rego Park. It is handsomely appointed for a casual ethnic restaurant with tasteful art on the walls, linen tablecloths and napkins and beautifully upholstered chairs. This is a real dinner out, not some dive.So what is Indo-Chinese food? Think of soy sauce blended with spices – lots of them. Think of red and green chili peppers tossed in with abandon. Think of a Chinese menu with no pork, but plenty of lamb and many vegetarian options. The rice of choice is fluffy Basmati that would be impossible to eat with chopsticks. Get the idea?Whatever else you order, don't pass up the chicken lollypops. These are chicken winglets, refried and served in a sublimely spicy sauce with little crunchy bits. We think the crunchies were fried onions, but we're not sure. They are spicy, but fear not, the steam won't exit your ears. If you have something against chicken, order the Gobi Manchurian. The gobi (cauliflower) is served in a piquant sauce very similar to the lollypops.Both the Coconut Shrimp/Chicken Soup, and the Seafood Soup were savory without excess heat. The Coconut Shrimp/Chicken Soup mixed the tropical flavors of lime and coconut, while the Seafood Soup relied on ginger for its distinctive taste.The only meats you'll find on this menu are lamb and chicken, as beef is forbidden to Hindus and pork to Muslims. We loved the intensely garlicky sauce on the Shredded Lamb in Hot Garlic Sauce, although the quality of the lamb did not measure up. We were luckier with the lamb in Sliced Lamb with mushroom and bamboo shoot, although the sauce was less exciting.Chili Chicken is a spicy favorite common to all Indo Chinese restaurants and well prepared here. Fish in Sambal sauce is Tangra Wok's take on the sauce that is the mainstay of South Indian food. The fish, served with steamed broccoli, was fresh and plentiful and an excellent choice for those who shy away from spicy food.As one would expect at any eatery catering to Indians, there is a bountiful choice of vegetarian options. Tangra Wok Vegetable Special combines paneer or tofu with vegetables in the chef's special sauce. Vegetable Ball Manchurian, described as minced carrots, cabbage and beans in dough balls tossed in Manchurian sauce is something we would not order again, even though the sauce was scrumptious. The balls contain only a scant amount of minced veggies. We highly recommend anything else with Manchurian sauce, but the vegetable balls would not compare favorably, nutritionally speaking, with say, Paneer Manchurian, or just about any other vegetable. They are also heavily into noodles and fried rice. Hakka noodles are especially popular and one of the dishes the Hakka people are known for. They are definitely tasty, but we prefer the plain, fluffy Basmati rice as an antidote to some of the spiciness of the other dishes.The desserts here clearly reflect their Indian side, probably because the Chinese aren't big into dessert. We completed our meal with a lovely Rasmalai, a pudding of Indian cheese in a sweet sauce. No fortune cookies or oranges.The Bottom LineTangra Wok is an opportunity for adventurous eaters to explore a cuisine that is gaining momentum in our borough and for the already initiated to enjoy a cuisine they love. The service is solicitous, the ambiance pleasing and the prices moderate. They offer weekday lunch specials. If you're a fan of Indian and Chinese food, you're sure to appreciate the fusion of the two. For you desis (you know who you are), its nostalgia time.Suzanne Parker is the TimesLedger's restaurant critic and author of “Eating Like Queens, a Guide to Ethnic Dining in America's Melting Pot, Queens New York.” She can be reached by e-mail at qnsfoodie@aol.com.Tangra Wok95-25 Queens Blvd., Rego Park718-275-0417 Cuisine: Indo-ChineseSetting: Understated Orientalia,comfortably appointed.Service: SolicitousHours: Lunch and Dinner DailyReservations: OptionalAlcohol: Full BarParking: StreetDress: CasualChildren: WelcomeMusic: RecordedTakeout: YesCredit cards: YesNoise level: AcceptableHandicap accessible: YesA Sample from the MenuCoconut Shrimp/Chicken Soup…$4.95Gobi Manchurian…$4.95Chicken Lollypops…$4.95Lamb Manchurian…$9.95Chili Chicken…$9.95Salt & Pepper Shrimp…$12.95Tangra Wok Special Vegetable…$8.95Hakka noodles with vegetables…$6.95Rasmalai…$3.95
