By Suzanne Parker
The last time we were there was early in 2004. We loved the food, but found the atmosphere noisy and hectic. We hoped that the expansion we had heard about would have alleviated the problem. No such luck. The tables are still as close together, and the decibel level at this seemingly always filled-to-capacity spot was just as high as we remembered. The stuccoed walls do nothing to absorb sound.We were greeted in rapid succession by two different waiters, both pushing bottled water. Given how much attention bottled water has gotten for its un-greenness, we really wish restaurants would get with the program and stop doing that. We turned our attention to the extensive wine list. Not seeing single glasses on the list, we asked our waiter what kind of wine he had by the glass. “Red or white,” he replied. “What kind?” we persisted. “Red or white,” he repeated. After a third try, we elicited some specifics. Was he being condescending, thinking that we didn't know one wine from another, or just lazy? Not a question we should have to ponder.Trattoria L'Incontro has an impressive regular menu, touching all classic Italian bases, including two categories of pasta and individual brick-oven pizzas. But what they're really known for is their prodigious list of daily specials. Our waiter, so taciturn when it came to wine, rattled off about 20 items from memory without a hitch. It made us wonder whether he was being coached through the headset he and all the wait staff wear. The specials, at least the ones we caught through the ambient din and our waiter's Eastern European accent, sounded irresistible.Our first course, one of the specials, was calamari salad with cannelloni beans. The rings of calamari (tentacles were excluded from this dish) retained the perfect degree of resiliency without becoming rubbery. The soft texture of the beans was a nice counterpoint to the chewier calamari, and the dressing had a nice garlicky herbal bite.The Caesar salad was undistinguished. Good croutons, but the dressing was oddly sweet and had no discernible hint of anchovies.The pasta was the high point of the evening for us. One of the specials, it was exquisitely earthy, handmade ravioli filled with a mixture of veal and filet mignon. The perfectly matched brown sauce was laced with bits of sausage meat. The transcendence of the pasta almost made the entrees an anticlimax. In fact, one of them we would have been better off without. Another special, veal paillard, a French dish made by pounding a veal chop until it's thin, completely lacked balance. The flavor that predominated in this poor, abused piece of meat was a residual bitterness from where it had been seared.We had better luck with the filet of Dover sole in lemon sauce. The impeccable filet was coated with a delicate, thickened lemon sauce that was subtle yet carried the dish. It was a perfect, light, yet satisfying, entree.The Trattoria's desserts are as rewarding as their pastas. A flawless pistachio crme brulee offered a slightly new twist to this classic. The Bottom Line/b>The food at Trattoria L'Incontro hits some real high points much of the time and is deserving of its accolades. The prices, with many entrees well over $30, hit some highs as well. If one is only taking the food into account, we believe the prices would be justified. The service is efficient and professional, but has a frenetic and harried feel. What is missing from this establishment is the feeling of being cosseted that one should get as part of the fine dining experience. Trattoria L'Incontro21-76 31st St., Astoria718-721-3532www.trattorialincontro.comCuisine: Upscale Italian, traditional and nuovo Setting: Bustling Italian decorService: Professional and knowledgeableHours: Lunch & dinner TuesdayÐSunday, closed MondayReservations: RecommendedAlcohol: Full barParking: ValetDress: CasualChildren: No MenuMusic: Tuesdays, Wednesdays & SundaysTakeout: Yes Private Parties: Party room seats 40Credit Cards: Yes Noise Level: Noisy Handicap Accessible: YesA SAMPLE FROM THE MENU:Calamari salad É $10.95Caesar salad É $8.50Veal ravioli É $18.95Veal paillard É $24.95Dover sole É $35.95Crme brulee pistachio É $7.95
