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Samba music to carnivores’ ears

By Nathan Duke

Samba Grill is ready to stake its claim as a one−of−a−kind among Astoria’s bustling culinary community, providing borough residents with an inexpensive and extensive taste of Brazil.

The eatery, at 29−17 23rd Ave. in Astoria, offers a variety of meats similar to a typical Brazilian steakhouse, but at less than half the price, owner Leonardo Soares said.

“It’s a very traditional Brazilian restaurant,” said Soares, who grew up in the Brazilian city of Belo Horizonte. “There are about 200 Brazilian steakhouses in the United States and most of them charge $60 for all−you−can−eat meals. But people could afford to eat here every day.”

On weekends, Samba charges $25.99 for its all−you−can−eat dinner, which features 12 varieties of meat, including beef ribs, skirt steak, chicken, sausage, pork loin, turkey, top sirloin, chicken breast wrapped in bacon and prime rib. During weekdays, patrons can get their fill for $17.95.

In addition, customers can purchase meat for $5.99 per pound. All meals include a salad bar and a buffet bar, which features plantains; pernil pork, a type of roast pork; varieties of rice; pork spare ribs; chicken stroganoff; okra; and beef oxtail soup. The restaurant also serves beer and wine and produces its own sangria.

During an all−you−can−eat meal, Samba’s waiters place a small wooden object in the shape of a salt shaker with green and red−painted ends on a customer’s table. As long as the green end is facing upward, the restaurant’s staff will continue to bring meat selections to the table.

Soares, who chose Astoria for the steakhouse’s location because both he and his wife previously lived in the neighborhood, said he cooks the meat for more than two hours before serving it.

“It takes a long time to cook,” he said. “But the flavor is unbelievable.”

Soares’ restaurant, which opened last fall, was originally founded near the courthouse in Central Islip, L.I., before moving to western Queens.

“Our name has a great reputation,” Soares said. “People come here from Long Island for dinner on the weekends.”

He said he plans to open another Brazilian eatery in the borough in the near future and is currently eyeing locations in Jackson Heights.

Samba Grill is open Sunday through Thursday from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. The restaurant, which also delivers, is open until 11 p.m. on Friday and Saturday.

Reach reporter Nathan Duke by e−mail at nduke@cnglocal.com or by phone at 718−229−0300, Ext. 156.