On the budding restaurant row that is Ditmars Avenue in Astoria, 718 is an absolute standout. Chef Raphael Sutter and his brother/manager Benny (Benoit, actually) took the comfort-food underpinnings of their native Alsace and created a smart, welcoming place with a first-rate menu, wine selection and bar.
The French cuisine here is masterfully accented with a “Spanish” flair, thanks in large part to the good influence of the Mexican and Colombian girls the brothers met and married while working at fine restaurants in Manhattan and living in Astoria.
Appetizers include the oh, so Gallic, a home-made foie gras terrine flavored with Cognac - served here with wonderful mango chutney and toasted brioche. It’s a guilty pleasure.
In contrast, the Ecuadorian shrimp Ceviche, marinated in citrus juice with a concass/ of tomato, mango and corn, highlighted with aromatic cilantro is a world away in geography and cuisine - and is out of this world.
The smoked duck breast and seared sea scallops with gnocchi and baby artichokes in an asparagus velout/ is sort of a grand tour for the palate, before the entr/e.
A word about the wine list: fantastic.
We left ourselves in Benny’s hands and he delivered glasses of house selections as the meal progressed. He changes the choices from time to time. The list is broad - French, of course, and Italian. Selections from South Africa, Australia, New Zealand and from the Americas, Chile and Argentina, California, Oregon and Long Island fill out the list.
Before the main dish, we sampled a torte flamb/. This is traditional Alsatian food - a wafer thin crust cooked in a hot oven with a topping, traditionally bacon and onion.
Ours was chicken with bacon and Swiss cheese, which they serve with a mound of lightly dressed mesclun salad in the center. As a New Yorker, it’s hard not to make a Pizza connection here - torte flamb/ is something else - a light and tasty transition to the main course.
What can I say about the main dishes - they outdid each other.
The grilled Striped Bass filet with saut/ed baby artichoke and gnocchi with a lemon-pistachio sauce is a master stroke. The fish is moist and flaky, the gnocchi are light with just the right bite and the tartness of the lemon is enhanced by the lightly sugared roasted nuts. Delightful.
If there are two things I can’t resist in a French restaurant (I wish there were only two) they’re lamb and duck.
The rack of lamb was roasted medium rare in banana leaves and divided into petite chops. They stand atop a parsnip puree with wild mushrooms, flavored with truffle oil and saut/ed spinach, adorned with a banana sauce. This is pure romance for the palate.
Another marriage made in heaven is the roasted duck breast, in a black cherry coriander sauce. The dish, with saut/ed potato and butternut squash, onions, bacon and shitake mushroom is world-class.
Desserts are outstanding. I had the warm molten chocolate cake, which comes with a top-drawer pistachio ice cream and sliced ripe strawberry. Magnifique!
Fantastic food and drink at reasonable prices, live music and sunset skies over the sidewalk tables … 718 is number one.
35-01 Ditmars Boulevard
Astoria, NY 11105
Telephone: 718-204-5535
All major credit cards.
Open every day at noon for lunch weekdays, brunch weekends
Dinner 5 until 10:30 p.m. Sunday to Thursday; until 11 p.m.
Friday and Saturday
Tapas served until midnight Sunday through Thursday; until 1 a.m.
Friday and Saturday
At the bar: Happy Hour (two for one)
5 p.m. to midnight
Monday through Thursday
Ladies Night Friday and Saturday
10 p.m. to midnight (two for one)
Wednesday’s Live Jazz starts at 9 p.m.
Friday and Saturday at 11 p.m.
Live DJ - Latin/South American
Very limited meter (until 7 p.m.)
and street parking
